Norigami - Winter Garden

There are just eight seats at this mighty spot at the Plant Street Market from Chef David Tsan. This is sushi done in a casual "choose your own adventure" style, as guests pick from various cuts of fish and shellfish and then select either nigiri, sashimi aburi, or temaki. It's all fun and may include winning plates like popcorn hamachi, a surprising dish with avocado puree, dots of whipped cream cheese, and finished with popped sorghum. Shima aji displays its buttery best as nigiri, and it's all about the sear on the avocado served with a sweet kabayaki sauce. Good products and solid techniques are on display in the hand rolls, where fillings like shredded blue crab make an impression.